Style Noir, McDean x Templer

Style Noir, McDean x Templer: "

The garments of Proenza Schouler are a study of texture and proportion – subverting classics with unusual fabrications, traditional details in unexpected places, and a silhouette that accentuates the feminine form. All these elements come together in a colour palette that often challenges the eye – with a clash of dark and light, of pastel and primary colours, or simply tones that almost match, but just don’t.

For this shoot in A#9, photographer Craig McDean and stylist Karl Templer hit the ‘desaturate’ button, proving the strength of cut and the contrast of textures within Proenza Schouler’s Fall Winter 09 collection - the integrity remaining even once the depth of those vivid colours is stripped away.

Five of the sharpest faces of the season were chosen by the pair, with a global mix of girls: Belgian veteran Hannelore Knuts, Ukrainian Alla Kostromicheva and American Jamie Bochert all at Women agency; Russian newcomer Ranya Mordanova and Canadian Meghan Collison at Supreme; and American tattooed beauty Renee Dorski at Elite.

The clean, polished aesthetic of the pieces and Craig’s crisp ‘film noir’ effect is supported by the dark eyes and accentuated cheekbone shading by Mark Carasquillo, and the girls’ hair rendered dark, straight and lustrous by the masterful Orlando Pita.

The pure white backdrop perfectly showcases the subtleties of Karl’s layering and intelligent styling of the looks – with a chic balance between alluring minidresses and pencil skirts with loose cocoon coats, slimline jackets and cinched waists, the hardness of biker leather and zip details playing off the delicate lingerie detailing on bustlines, and skin-tight high collars shown next to loose evening coats. Several looks are also accentuated with hard, geometric costume jewellery from the likes of Camilla Dietz Bergeron and Erickson Beamon.

In essence ‘Style Noir’ captures the dark side of Proenza Schouler in both a literal and more figurative sense, not simply shooting their collection in black and white for a different impact (as one could do with any clothing) but rather accentuating the darker, sexually-charged aspects of their collection in a chic, modern way.

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