BOYS, by Sølve Sundsbø

BOYS, by Sølve Sundsbø: "

Proenza Schouler clothing has never fallen into the category of androgynous, unisex, or boyish. It rather exudes an essence of calculated femininity, with proportions that hint at the female form in both suggestive and more blatantly sexy ways. Whether it is the gentle fall of a wide leg pant off the hips or the perforation in a fluid leather tee shirt, the body is always present and the clothes a direct reaction to its lines.

So how does one alienate this hallmark femininity and de-contextualise Proenza Schouler’s clothing? Why of course, put it on some boys!

This is exactly what LOVE magazine’s Katie Grand did for A#9, serving up the Spring Summer 2007 collection on three London-based male models. Selecting the tightest bandage skirts and dresses, drainpipe trousers and even a leotard, Katie styled the boys in this simple setting that almost requires a ‘double-take’ to realise the main conceit – serious boys posing in serious girls clothes.

The second touch of irony comes from Katie’s choice of models, particularly London’s man-about-town, cross-dressing DJ Jodie Harsh, replete with blonde wig and smoky eye make-up by Miranda Joyce. The other three boys carry a rather more masculine gravitas though each have their own twist, whether it is Luke Worrall’s blonde pixie hair and black lipstick, Josh Bitelli’s single earring, or artist Danny Fox’s butterfly chest tattoo.

Norwegian photographer Sølve Sundsbø shot this black and white piece with a clean grey and white backdrop, utilising shadow and light to play on the folds of the garments on the male bodies, highlighting both the ways in which the clothes ‘work’, and they way in which they really don’t. Posing the boys in traditional female positions, Sølve further pushes the awkwardness that resounds through the styling, challenging the viewers perception of beauty.

Taking fashion into unexpected places through subversive concepts is one of the most important ways to fully understand its potential as an artistic medium. This shoot proves how gender and traditional notions of dress can be pushed to the limit for unsettling and humorous results.

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