Thursday, January 14, 2010

2009 – Highlights

2009 – Highlights: "

This is not a top ten list by any means, moreover it’s just a compilation of things (not necessarily new) that kept me interested and inspired throughout the year.


In alphabetical order:


1. The Americans – Robert Frank


americans-frankRobert Frank, Trolley—New Orleans, 1955


I can honestly admit that although Robert Frank’s The Americans has been collecting dust on my bookshelf for many years, my love of photography just didn’t encompass this brilliant little book until now.


Maybe it’s the fact that the book is 50 years old and that Frank had a huge year in terms of never ending press and exhibitions, but 2009 will be forever stamped on my brain as the year I learned to truly appreciate Frank’s amazing accomplishment.


The Metropolitan’s Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans was the exhibition that helped open my eyes. Looking at all 83 photographs that make up the book and seeing them in sequential order hung up on a wall totally confounded me and made me realize how much was on the mind of this great visual thinker and how intelligently edited and put together the overall project was. These photographs are wonderful and witty, ironic and beautiful.


I guess I should have realized these things years ago by looking at the book on my shelf but sometimes one can’t see past the hype that surrounds a highly regarded project or the work is just way ahead of and smarter than most viewers including myself.


Make sure to see the exhibition before it closes on January 3rd, you won’t regret it.


2. Bradford Cox – Atlas Sound, Deerhunter


walkabout-cover


There isn’t much to say that I haven’t already said before about Bradford Cox, Deerhunter or Atlas Sound. Logos was definitely one of my favorite and most listened to albums released this year.


Let’s not forget about all great extra music Cox releases on his blog: new tracks, unreleased recordings and wonderfully considered micromixes.


3. Dirty Projectors – Bitta Orca


bitte-orca


I have already written about this great album, another one of my favorites released earlier this year, but it’s worth repeating.


This is a great album that should stand up against the test of time.


4. Ed Ruscha – Leave Any Information At The Signal


9780262182201-f30


“I think photography is dead as a fine art; its only place is in the commercial world, for technical or information purposes. I don’t mean cinema photography, but still photography; that is, limited edition, individual, hand-processed photos. Mine are simply reproductions of photos. Thus, it is not a book to house a collection of art photographs–they are technical data like industrial photography. To me, they are nothing more than snapshots.”


-Ed Rushca talking to John Coplans in 1965


How can you not want to read the words of someone who has so dramatically influenced contemporary photography and yet doesn’t consider himself a photographer let alone believe in photography as an art form. Leave Any Information at the Signal: Writings, Interviews, Bits, Pages is absolutely priceless and worth your time.


While you are at it, pick up a copy of either of his photography catalogues and see if you don’t disagree with his own statements.


5. Hunger – Steve McQueen


hunger-7


Feature film debut of the year if not absolute best film of the year from British video artist Steve McQueen.


Hunger was an intense and necessary viewing experience. If it’s still playing in a theater near you don’t hesitate any longer, this is not meant for DVD.


6. The Hurt Locker & Inglourious Basterds


the-hurt-locker


Although very different in tone, these two powerful films still have me thinking long after having seen them. A return to form for Quentin Tarantino and a step out and above for Kathryn Bigelow. Looking forward to what they both do next.


7. Photographing in Color – Paul Outerbridge


Large_H1000xW950On eBay earlier this year I picked up a very cheap copy of Paul Outerbridge’s Photographing in Color published in 1940. Unfortunately my copy didn’t include the scarce dust jacket. The book itself is mostly a how-to and craft-related book of color photographic processes presented by Outerbridge but includes some insightful thoughts about the photographic medium in general.


The book begins with this remarkably outdated introductory paragraph:


“SO YOU think you’d like to photograph in color! Well, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t, but you’ll have to take certain things into consideration. Color photography in its present state of development, even with the easiest processes known, is not quite as easy as black and white nor is it as fast, and furthermore it costs more.”


outerbridge


It’s amazing how things have really turned upside down since 1940, it is now way easier and cheaper to print in color than it is to print in black and white (unless one goes the inkjet route) and most of the processes discussed by Outerbridge are old and out of date. But one of the things I find not out of date in this book are the 15 incredibly rich and colorful photographic plates which are tipped in to the book.


Thinking about a lot of the color still life photography I saw this year, I can’t help but think of Outerbridge and his subtly enduring influence.


8. Protest Photographs – Chauncey Hare


B7840


Probably the best new photographic book I picked up this year, Chauncey Hare’s Protest Photographs is incredible and should probably get some kind of award for thickest photography book and most belatedly printed body of work. If you just finished a series of photographs and think you deserve a book, think again… and then wait.


Don’t miss the personal essay written by Hare himself and get a deep insight into this heartfelt body of work.


9. Vernacular Photographs


bird_smCollecting vernacular photographs is an extremely cheap hobby as most photographs usually cost about $1. But the habit does requires some serious patience as one must sift through enormous and disorganized piles of images to find the good ones. While I have been a collector of many paintings, drawings and objects over the years, it was only recently that I discovered the absolute joy and wonder of collecting these little poetic gems.


Part of me is beginning to feel that I am practicing my picture taking and editing ability by looking through hundreds if not thousands of photographs. In a way I feel that collecting photographs has become another aspect of my photographic practice and in many ways these pictures I collect have become completely mine as they reflect my taste and picture making sensibility.


There is also quite a bit of luck involved, just like making pictures.


guns


Start your own collection and see what inspires you.


10. White Noise and Mao II – Don Delillo


whitenoise_2006I began 2009 by reading White Noise, originally published in 1985 and was immediately taken with Don Delillo’s brand of writing which I found to be both disturbing and humorous as well as intelligent and extremely ironic. White Noise is quite a dark, almost dystopic view of contemporary life as reflected through our television obsessed, consumeristic and polluted lifestyle.


One of the reasons I picked up the book in the first place was because Jason Fulford mentions it in Spine: New Voices in Graphic Design. Fulford provided the photographs that were used for one of the paperback editions. The cover photographs together with the novel description peeked my interest enough to take a copy home one day from the Strand.


From the first page forward I immediately began to see the novel as a film. Delillo’s language is extremely descriptive and full of visual references. After having just finished reading Mao II, I realize that this is Delillo’s standard practice and am already looking forward to reading Libra which is sitting in a stack of books on my shelf. There is just something very cinematic about the way Delillo writes and the way he describes a scene, the words surround you and conjure up image after image in your mind. Read carefully as there are many deep thoughts that concern the power of the photographic image.


11. The White Ribbon – Michael Haneke


whiteribbon


Another dark, beautiful and mysterious masterpiece from Michael Haneke. I don’t know where he comes up with this stuff and I probably have just as many answers as the next guy (which means I know absolutely nothing) but I’m thoroughly intrigued and looking forward to seeing it again very soon. One of the things I love most about Haneke’s films in general is that there really are no answers and easy explanations. In a way I realize that many of his films hold the power of a single photograph, which without text, explanation or context can only hint at their true meaning and underlying narrative.

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KARL Lagerfeld vidéo

KARL Lagerfeld vidéo: "
Karl Lagerfeld photographe, on connait à travers diverses campagnes de pubs! Mais Karl réalisateur  beaucoup moins ... Entouré des égéries de sa collection “Starting Point”, Lara Stone et Baptiste Giacobini, KARL réalise cette vidéo dans les plus beaux lieux de notre capitale!  A déguster .... (perso j'adore!)

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Karl Lagerfeld photographer, we know! But as a director much less... Surrounded with égéries of his collection ' Starting Point ', Lara Stone and Baptiste Giacobini, KARL realizes this video in the most beautiful places of Paris! ENJOY IT ... (i'm lovin it)






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Givenchy Spring/Summer 2010 campaign stars Natalia Vodianova

Givenchy Spring/Summer 2010 campaign stars Natalia Vodianova: "
givenchy_ss2010_campaign1.jpg
Natalia Vodianova has been recruited for Givenchy's Spring/Summer 2010 group-shot campaign...


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More curves ahead at V magazine

More curves ahead at V magazine: "
vmagazine_jan2010_curvesahead2.jpg
We recently showed you a preview of V magazine's plus-size issue with Terry Richardson's photo-shoot...


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Mark Fast unveils lower-priced line

Mark Fast unveils lower-priced line: "markfast_lowerpricedline.jpgMark Fast is going the way many designers are these days - making his creations more accessible by producing a lower-priced line.


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A received grace, by Anna Piaggi

A received grace, by Anna Piaggi: "

Anna Piaggi's letter to Riccardo Tisci


One of the most poignant and truly personal contributions to A#8 is a letter to Riccardo Tisci from the eternally fabulous and debonair lady, the true fashionista’s fashionista – Anna Piaggi. A veritable style icon, Anna has been a writer and stylist in fashion since the 1960s, working predominantly with Italian Vogue and the defunct Vanity magazine, producing over 7,000 editorial pages in her lifetime. Anna is the muse of milliner Stephen Jones, as well as an avid follower and friend to Manolo Blahnik, Vivienne Westwood and Karl Lagerfeld among many others, and was given an entire exhibition dedicated to her fashion archive, wardrobe and life’s work at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.


Anna’s wildly colourful personal style has no contenders to its vivacious attitude – with nonsensical clashes of pattern and palette and rich displays of embellishment and texture that render the poutish, petite woman as her very own work of art.


To Riccardo, Anna has written most warm-heartedly, speaking of his own poetry within his designs and the way that he is able to verbalise this in private to her. She likens his puns to ‘ex-votos’, religious votive offerings to Gods and saints that offer thanks, and has included an image of her own symbolic ‘ex-voto’ – an embellished eye on crude leather.


Read her kind words below:


“GIVENCHIC!





Dear Riccardo, the hints you give me after each one of your shows are always a surprise, an amusement, something to remember… a concentrate of the collection in a very few words, quick, light, spontaneous. And always with a very happy accent, a play with words, which I am always looking for. A little miracle each time, like a ‘grazia ricevuta’ (a received grace?), which is the meaning of each religious ex-voto, like the heart embroidered on a black dress in your spring-summer? NO, no, no, autumn winter collection 2008. I love ‘ex-voto’ (ex-votos?) and I have been even using the eye (see photo) as a jewel with a ribbon around my neck, with your beautiful ‘peep’ coat. My favourite quote of yours was ‘maori, fetish, baby doll’ and it stayed in my head for quite a long time. How great to have a bouncing relationship with fashion, to feel it as a pretext for free poetry, nursery rhyme… looking for your, your next collection-expression


yours,


Anna Piaggi”


Anna Piaggi by David Bailey, in AnOther Magazine

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JUST DO IT

JUST DO IT: "

Marc Turlan commissioned by Riccardo Tisci for Nike


Artist Marc Turlan works with magazine imagery; tearing, cutting, and decontextualising paper to create disrupted works with flattened elements of the sculptural.


In collaboration with Nike and commissioned by Riccardo Tisci, Turlan turned his scalpel on two intense faces in A#8, removing everything but their confrontational glares for a figurative take on Nike Air.


Another work shows an adolescent of middle-eastern origin, shrouded in an oversized hoodie silhouette and referencing religion, a well-established strand within the world of Tisci thematics.


Marc Turlan commissioned by Riccardo Tisci for Nike


A brand that reaches beyond sportswear, Nike’s purposeful clothing provides an adaptable uniform for a broad cross-section of society, with the athletic juggernaut’s sneakers going on to ground the feet of many more, including Tisci himself.


Yet portrayed here is a subculture culled from underneath. It’s the heavy mood of angry, disenchanted street kids in hoods, the next Brazilian talents kicking footballs in tees under baking sunlight and an evergreen grouping of teens-twentysomethings united in voice.


Not unlike the attitude – and casting behind – Tisci’s brave menswear for Givenchy itself…


A shrouded model at Givenchy presentation for Spring Summer 2010 in Paris.

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Many muses

Many muses: "

Mariacarla Boscono by Theo Volpatti


A#8 is a book of beauties – strong, powerful women whose lives and work have enchanted Riccardo Tisci so much so that they epitomise and mythologise his ideal Givenchy woman.  From his proclaimed muse the Italian model Mariacarla Boscono and icy Russian beauty Sasha Pivovarova to French actresses Emmanuele Seigner, Beatrice Dalle and Lou Doillon, each woman holds a strikingly different character – none could be labelled as classic beauties, instead all holding an alluring mystique. Striking features, aggression and passion in their eyes, they all become characters in Riccardo’s dark Givenchy fairytale.


Mariacarla Boscono


Above, captured by Theo Volpatti, Mariacarla Boscono stares questioningly into the lens, seemingly immersed in a geometric kaleidoscope of barb-like decorations, her Givenchy dress disappearing into the backdrop.


“Maria Carla has always been my muse, Now she’s become the muse of Givenchy. She is my Audrey Hepburn, but I cannot really say it like that.” – Riccardo Tisci.


Sasha Pivovarova by Jeanpaul Pietrus


Sasha Pivovarova


Sasha Pivovarova messes her blonde locks in a spidery black dress, as John-Paul Pietrus‘ sepia toned and dog-eared image sends her back in time to a bygone era of romanticism.


Emmanuelle Seigner photographed by Karim Sadli


Emmanuelle Seigner


The calm, poise and playfulness of age and experience shows in Emmanuelle Seigner,  wife of controversial director Roman Polanski, as she sits for her portrait with Karim Sadli in heavily graphic printed Givenchy suiting. Her mouth is open and eyes wide yet her posture is relaxed, at once both static and ready for action.


Beatrice Dalle by Karim Sadli


Beatrice Dalle


Sadli’s diversity is proven in this image to the last, as actress Beatrice Dalle shows fierce intensity. With petal-like ears, Dalle is transformed into a strong animal spirit that resonates through her locked jaw, piercing dark eyes and the atmosphere of high wind and the elements through her tousled hair.


Lou Doillon photographed by Karim Sadli


Lou Doillon


Here Jane Birkin’s rockstar daughter seems somewhat more demure and resigned than usual, her eyes down and mouth pouted in a more sombre mood than such a party dress should inspire. Her rebellion lies in the glimpse of tattoo that wraps around her arm, and vampish kohl black eyeshadow. She is sexy yet subdued.

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