Saturday, January 23, 2010
The Olsens Launch TheRow.com
Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen's The Row has kept a rather low profile since launching in 2006.
The luxury line sits atop the mini-empire that includes Elizabeth and James and Olsenboye and it was, at the start, exclusively available at Barneys.
But the twins are following in the footsteps of recent online converts Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler - they launched their own website yesterday, TheRow.com.
It offers lookbooks of both men's and women's collections through Pre-Fall 2010, a news section (promising a behind the scenes look at next month's NYFW presentation), a mission statement and soon, a shop feature. The simple design is set against varying fabrics, draped like a $300 t-shirt should be.
Is it too soon to declare 2010 the year of the Olsen?
Dree Hemingway for VALENTINO SS10

Season: Spring Summer 2010
Stylist: Karl Templer
Hair Stylist: Luigi Murenu
Makeup Artist: Lucia Pieroni
Model: Dree Hemingway |Elite|
Photographer: Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott
Website: www.valentino.com
Photography duo Mert & Marcus teams up with stylist Karl Temper and girl of the moment Dree Hemingway for Valentino Spring Summer 2010 Campaign.
'Valentino was a contemporary take on a gothic poem in a way, It is far from the usual, glamorous, classic Valentino image. It was meant to reflect more of the inner beauty of today's young, contemporary women.' - Mert Alas
Continue for more after the jump:

Vogue UK : Under Her Spell : Natalia Vodianova
Photographer : Nick Knight
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- Harper’s Bazaar UK : September 2009 : Natalia Vodianova Photographer : Paola Kudacki [gallery size='medium' row='3' columns='2'] ...
- Natalia Vodianova By Craig McDean [Photographer : Craig McDean] ...
- UK Vogue : March 2009 : Editorial: Black and White [Visit : UK Vogue | Photographer : Nick Knight...
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"Julia in chains, by Magnus Berger
Surrounded by an international creative jetset of young and old, Riccardo Tisci has been blessed with the ecletic mix of friends and contacts from his Italian heritage, British education at Central St Martins in London, and his time in Paris with Givenchy. Models, editors, painters, sculptors, photographers, stylists, journalists, actors and more are all a part of A#8, and the web of links between them can be uncovered with a little research or inner circle knowledge – but this aside, they have all come together ultimately to support Riccardo.
It is with this overlapping, dynamic artistic circle in mind that we present the collaboration of New York editor and photographer Magnus Berger with his girlfriend at the time Julia Restoin-Roitfeld. Julia is the daughter of Paris Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld, who was also featured in A#8 in a shot by Karl Lagerfeld.
Magnus has photographed Julia wearing nothing but the iconic gold chains of Givenchy’s Fall Winter 2008 ready-to-wear show, with multiple images layered together to create a shape-shifting effect, as Julia fades into the sepia background, her hair a matted mess and her kohled eyes staring out from different angles. Almost like a spirit painting or aura photograph, the image is haunting and dark, blurring the lines between fashion and art for a surrealist portrait.
To view more of Magnus’s work, please visit his magazine here: The Last Magazine.
"The eve of the show, icons by Willy Vanderperre
Hours before Riccardo Tisci presents his Givenchy menswear show in Paris this evening, we present two of his iconic faces -campaign favourites of the brand and featured in one of A#8’s most simple and beautiful spreads. Shot by Belgian photographer Willy Vanderperre, Canadian model Simon Nessman’s boyish curls, feline eyes and lithe, masculine frame are showcased in movement as he turns across a white backdrop wearing only a silver rosary.
A turn of the page reveals the Amazonian strength of Brazilian beauty Raquel Zimmermann also mid-flight, dressed in fringed Givenchy and a svelte black fedora.
In pure black and white, Willy’s romantic imagery holds a strong chiaroscuro, his models like dancers in front of the lens.
"Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Raquel, by Mario Sorrenti
Riccardo Tisci’s A#8, and indeed his wider aesthetic, borders a fine line between extremes. With a sense of the perverse, the darker underbelly clashing with the demure, Tisci divines a rebellious streak through the bold yet classic halls of Hubert de Givenchy’s fashion house.
These images of supermodel Raquel Zimmermann embody this eclectic and obtuse perspective of beauty celebrated by Riccardo, in their blend of glamour and domesticity, provocation and mediocrity. Photographed by world-acclaimed Italian photographer Mario Sorrenti and styled by the fashion director of L’Uomo Vogue George Cortina, the pictures portray Raquel reclining nude on a vinyl booth, surrounded by the remnants of a Japanese meal and walls plastered with semi-nude portraits of Japanese women. Her only adornment is a slick of sky blue eyeshadow and a pair of gold patent platform shoes from Givenchy Autumn Winter 2008.
In the image below she is joined by a a smiling older man, bespectacled and grasping a camera in one hand, with one of the wall portraits printed to his tee shirt. Raquel is entirely unwaved by his presence, continuing to pose for Sorrenti’s lens regardless of the voyeur who joins her on the red vinyl.
Eerie and suggestive, the pictures leave a sense of mystery for the viewer, with the lingering question: will she be on that wall or a tshirt next?
"
Thursday, January 14, 2010
2009 – Highlights
This is not a top ten list by any means, moreover it’s just a compilation of things (not necessarily new) that kept me interested and inspired throughout the year.
In alphabetical order:
1. The Americans – Robert Frank
Robert Frank, Trolley—New Orleans, 1955
I can honestly admit that although Robert Frank’s The Americans has been collecting dust on my bookshelf for many years, my love of photography just didn’t encompass this brilliant little book until now.
Maybe it’s the fact that the book is 50 years old and that Frank had a huge year in terms of never ending press and exhibitions, but 2009 will be forever stamped on my brain as the year I learned to truly appreciate Frank’s amazing accomplishment.
The Metropolitan’s Looking In: Robert Frank’s The Americans was the exhibition that helped open my eyes. Looking at all 83 photographs that make up the book and seeing them in sequential order hung up on a wall totally confounded me and made me realize how much was on the mind of this great visual thinker and how intelligently edited and put together the overall project was. These photographs are wonderful and witty, ironic and beautiful.
I guess I should have realized these things years ago by looking at the book on my shelf but sometimes one can’t see past the hype that surrounds a highly regarded project or the work is just way ahead of and smarter than most viewers including myself.
Make sure to see the exhibition before it closes on January 3rd, you won’t regret it.
2. Bradford Cox – Atlas Sound, Deerhunter
There isn’t much to say that I haven’t already said before about Bradford Cox, Deerhunter or Atlas Sound. Logos was definitely one of my favorite and most listened to albums released this year.
Let’s not forget about all great extra music Cox releases on his blog: new tracks, unreleased recordings and wonderfully considered micromixes.
3. Dirty Projectors – Bitta Orca
I have already written about this great album, another one of my favorites released earlier this year, but it’s worth repeating.
This is a great album that should stand up against the test of time.
4. Ed Ruscha – Leave Any Information At The Signal
“I think photography is dead as a fine art; its only place is in the commercial world, for technical or information purposes. I don’t mean cinema photography, but still photography; that is, limited edition, individual, hand-processed photos. Mine are simply reproductions of photos. Thus, it is not a book to house a collection of art photographs–they are technical data like industrial photography. To me, they are nothing more than snapshots.”
-Ed Rushca talking to John Coplans in 1965
How can you not want to read the words of someone who has so dramatically influenced contemporary photography and yet doesn’t consider himself a photographer let alone believe in photography as an art form. Leave Any Information at the Signal: Writings, Interviews, Bits, Pages is absolutely priceless and worth your time.
While you are at it, pick up a copy of either of his photography catalogues and see if you don’t disagree with his own statements.
5. Hunger – Steve McQueen
Feature film debut of the year if not absolute best film of the year from British video artist Steve McQueen.
Hunger was an intense and necessary viewing experience. If it’s still playing in a theater near you don’t hesitate any longer, this is not meant for DVD.
6. The Hurt Locker & Inglourious Basterds
Although very different in tone, these two powerful films still have me thinking long after having seen them. A return to form for Quentin Tarantino and a step out and above for Kathryn Bigelow. Looking forward to what they both do next.
7. Photographing in Color – Paul Outerbridge
On eBay earlier this year I picked up a very cheap copy of Paul Outerbridge’s Photographing in Color published in 1940. Unfortunately my copy didn’t include the scarce dust jacket. The book itself is mostly a how-to and craft-related book of color photographic processes presented by Outerbridge but includes some insightful thoughts about the photographic medium in general.
The book begins with this remarkably outdated introductory paragraph:
“SO YOU think you’d like to photograph in color! Well, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t, but you’ll have to take certain things into consideration. Color photography in its present state of development, even with the easiest processes known, is not quite as easy as black and white nor is it as fast, and furthermore it costs more.”
It’s amazing how things have really turned upside down since 1940, it is now way easier and cheaper to print in color than it is to print in black and white (unless one goes the inkjet route) and most of the processes discussed by Outerbridge are old and out of date. But one of the things I find not out of date in this book are the 15 incredibly rich and colorful photographic plates which are tipped in to the book.
Thinking about a lot of the color still life photography I saw this year, I can’t help but think of Outerbridge and his subtly enduring influence.
8. Protest Photographs – Chauncey Hare
Probably the best new photographic book I picked up this year, Chauncey Hare’s Protest Photographs is incredible and should probably get some kind of award for thickest photography book and most belatedly printed body of work. If you just finished a series of photographs and think you deserve a book, think again… and then wait.
Don’t miss the personal essay written by Hare himself and get a deep insight into this heartfelt body of work.
9. Vernacular Photographs
Collecting vernacular photographs is an extremely cheap hobby as most photographs usually cost about $1. But the habit does requires some serious patience as one must sift through enormous and disorganized piles of images to find the good ones. While I have been a collector of many paintings, drawings and objects over the years, it was only recently that I discovered the absolute joy and wonder of collecting these little poetic gems.
Part of me is beginning to feel that I am practicing my picture taking and editing ability by looking through hundreds if not thousands of photographs. In a way I feel that collecting photographs has become another aspect of my photographic practice and in many ways these pictures I collect have become completely mine as they reflect my taste and picture making sensibility.
There is also quite a bit of luck involved, just like making pictures.
Start your own collection and see what inspires you.
10. White Noise and Mao II – Don Delillo
I began 2009 by reading White Noise, originally published in 1985 and was immediately taken with Don Delillo’s brand of writing which I found to be both disturbing and humorous as well as intelligent and extremely ironic. White Noise is quite a dark, almost dystopic view of contemporary life as reflected through our television obsessed, consumeristic and polluted lifestyle.
One of the reasons I picked up the book in the first place was because Jason Fulford mentions it in Spine: New Voices in Graphic Design. Fulford provided the photographs that were used for one of the paperback editions. The cover photographs together with the novel description peeked my interest enough to take a copy home one day from the Strand.
From the first page forward I immediately began to see the novel as a film. Delillo’s language is extremely descriptive and full of visual references. After having just finished reading Mao II, I realize that this is Delillo’s standard practice and am already looking forward to reading Libra which is sitting in a stack of books on my shelf. There is just something very cinematic about the way Delillo writes and the way he describes a scene, the words surround you and conjure up image after image in your mind. Read carefully as there are many deep thoughts that concern the power of the photographic image.
11. The White Ribbon – Michael Haneke
Another dark, beautiful and mysterious masterpiece from Michael Haneke. I don’t know where he comes up with this stuff and I probably have just as many answers as the next guy (which means I know absolutely nothing) but I’m thoroughly intrigued and looking forward to seeing it again very soon. One of the things I love most about Haneke’s films in general is that there really are no answers and easy explanations. In a way I realize that many of his films hold the power of a single photograph, which without text, explanation or context can only hint at their true meaning and underlying narrative.
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